"There is No Frigate Like a Book": How an Inspired Memoir Sparked a Quest for Duck Fat, '70's Cookery Books, and the Author's Cassoulet

Emily D. was right. The old adage about just never knowing where a book is going to take you lingers for good reason. Some books transport to fantasy. Some mire in dark realities. Others, grounded in practicality, guide us to something new or better or to our new or better selves. Rarely, one does a little of all these things. Last week, I picked up a copy of Matt McAllester's memoir, Bittersweet- Lessons From My Mother's Kitchen http://www.amazon.com/Bittersweet-Lessons-My-Mothers-Kitchen/dp/0385342187/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1315188834&sr=1-1 and was treated to one of these experiences. It is a fusion of the adventures of a war correspondent who is also a spouse, a wanna-be parent, a mourning son, and a self-taught cook attempting to recapture the nostalgic flavors of his childhood to maintain a connection with his mom after her passing. I know. It all sounds a bit overwhelming and no, it is not fiction. Honestly, it's not maudlin one bit. It's frank and confessional with an uplifting revelation. It's one of those books with a voice that connects like a tried and true friend. I didn't want it to end.

One of the best aspects of this book is the skillful way McAllester weaves the narrative of childhood memory with the actual recipes he's exploring. He records the basic steps and ingredients for his mom's goat cheese omelette, strawberry ice-cream, drop scones, and cassoulet, just to name a few. Maybe more fascinating, are the allusions to the cookery books of the 70's that inspired and guided her cooking. The works of big names like Elizabeth David (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_David) and Ruth Rogers (River Cafe fame) appear frequently, as they were the culinary heroes of his mother's world. He inherits these '70's gems after her passing, and teaches himself the recipes and techniques that were her passion. Late at night, I found myself on Amazon looking for these old books (markers of my own childhood era) and wanting them, even at their often prohibitive prices. What else is on those pages? I wondered. And wondered.

Intoxicated by McAllester's journey, I began to feel I really wanted to try making something from this book. I wanted to taste one of the savory and hearty dishes that were symbolic of the deep roots of family he recounted. My husband and I agreed the cassoulet sounded perfect.

Off I went for the ingredients. First, I headed for Fleisher's, our famed local butcher shop http://www.fleishers.com/, but to no avail. (Their day off.) So, the local grocery had to do, and I did get most of what I needed...except the duck fat. Now, I've never purchased duck fat in my life, and I hadn't the slightest idea where to find it. But, I got lucky at the second grocery (http://www.adamsfarms.com/), and I was soon excitedly on my way home with the goods.

                                                                 duck fat and inspiration

I wish I had words to convey to you the aroma of this dish. Bacon, sausage, onions melting and caramelizing, rosemary, thyme... it is seductive. You will want to sit down and have a glass of wine and daydream. Do that. (Just remember to get up now and again to give a little stir.)

Tons of recipes for this dish out there, but I found this one to be pretty similar to what's in the book http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Cassoulet-1000068227 . McAllester tries to keep it really simple, and I often simplify or change a few things anyway based on what I do or do not have around or just for taste preference. For example, I used grape tomatoes I had instead of buying plum, and mixed leeks and shallots in with the required onions. (I figured no harm done there.) Obviously, I also used the duck fat in place of actually cooking and adding duck. (All the duck I found was frozen anyway, and I didn't have time for the defrost.)

the bacon (used a smoked one this time)

bacon, onions, leeks, a few shallots, garlic, tomatoes, rosemary, thyme (added the sausage, duck fat, and beans to this later)

the finished cassoulet

So, what does it taste like? Hearty, smoky peasant food. Think pork and beans elevated. Elevated big time. Yes, you may want to take a nap afterward, but naps are healthy, wonderful things. Do this too.

All in all, this was a fun little journey. I never expected to love this book or this meal so much. But, I did, and I will make it again. Sitting around the table over plates of this felt good. We were together, filling our bellies with food that made us feel stronger somehow. Tougher. Heartier. More ready to take things on......well, maybe tomorrow that is, after our naps. And something else happened along this journey. Something simple, yet unexpected. As I was cooking, our son came into the kitchen busily talking of King Kong and all else, and he stopped mid-sentence, took a big sniff, and said, "Wow, that smells good, mom. What is it?" And we chatted as he examined scraps of this and that left over on the cutting board and peered curiously at the steamy pot on the stove. Afterward, I smiled thinking McAllester might have enjoyed this moment. The journey came full circle. So, I wrote my name inside the cover of this book, flagged the page, and placed it on the shelf with my other cookbooks. Hey, you never know who may own them someday.